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Brother PC-420 Operation Manual
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Brother PC-420 Operation Manual

Brother computerized sewing manching user's guide
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  • Page 2: Enclosed Accessories

    Note (For U.S.A. only) ● Foot controller: Model N5V This foot controller can be used on this machine model NX-400/PC-420. ● The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer (Part code: XA4813-051). ● The organized accessory tray is available,through your authorized dealer.(Part code: XC4489-051)

  • Page 3: Names Of Machine Parts And Their Functions

    Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before using the sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts.

  • Page 4: Needle And Presser Foot Section

    Do not cover the air vent while the sewing machine is being used. 5 Main power switch Use the main power switch to turn the sewing machine on and off. 6 Foot controller jack Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable into the foot controller jack.

  • Page 5: Operation Buttons

    Operation buttons The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations. 1 Start/stop button Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric.

  • Page 6: Operation Panel

    Operation panel The operation panel, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, consists of the LCD (liquid crystal display) and keys for specifying various sewing settings. 1 LCD (liquid crystal display) Settings for the selected stitch and error messages for incorrect operations appear in the LCD.

  • Page 7: Optional Accessories

    Optional Accessories The following are available as optional accessories. 1. Side cutter Part code: SA177,XC3879-002 2. Quilting guide Part code: SA132, XC2215-002 3. Wide table Part code: SA537,XC4541-051 Memo ● To obtain optional accessories or parts, contact your sales representative or the nearest authorized service center.

  • Page 8: Introduction

    Sewing Machine Features 1 Easy upper threading Since the spool can be installed at the front of the sewing machine, the upper thread can easily be threaded. In addition, the needle can be threaded with a simple operation. (page 24) 2 Automatic thread-cutting The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut the thread at the end of the stitching.

  • Page 9: Table Of Contents

    Right-side/rear view ...Cover C Operation buttons ... Cover D Operation panel ... Cover E Optional Accessories ...1 Introduction ...2 Sewing Machine Features ...2 Contents ...3 Important Safety Instructions ...6 GETTING READY ...9 Turning the Machine On/Off ... 10 Power supply precautions ... 10 Turning on the machine ...
  • Page 10 —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— SEWING BASICS ...45 Sewing ... 46 General sewing procedure ... 47 Positioning the fabric ... 48 Starting to sew ... 49 Securing the stitching ... 51 Cutting the thread ... 53 Adjusting the Thread Tension ...54 Changing the tension of theupper thread ... 54 Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length ...55 Adjusting the stitch width ...
  • Page 11 Reinforcement Stitching ... 100 Triple stretch stitching ... 100 Bar tack stitching ... 100 Darning ... 102 Eyelet Stitching ... 104 Decorative Stitching ... 105 Fagoting ... 106 Scallop stitching ... 107 Smocking ... 107 Shell tuck stitching ... 108 Joining ...

  • Page 12: Important Safety Instructions

    15. Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual. 16. This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without supervision.
  • Page 13 FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY If this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug then please read the following. IMPORTANT If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, it should be cut off and an appropriate three-pin plug fitted.
  • Page 14 In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer. For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.brother.com...

  • Page 15: Getting Ready

    GETTING READY The various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter. Turning the Machine On/Off ...10 Understanding the LCD Screens ...12 Changing the Machine Settings ...14 Winding/Installing the Bobbin ...18 Upper Threading ...24 Replacing the Needle ...33 Replacing the Presser Foot ...37 Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces ...42...

  • Page 16: Turning The Machine On/Off

    GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Turning the Machine On/Off This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off. Power supply precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply. WARNING ● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.

  • Page 17: Turning On The Machine

    Unplug the power supply cord from the power supply jack. Note ● When the sewing machine is turned off, all stitch settings are cancelled. ● If a power outage occurs while the sewing machine is being operated, turn off the sewing machine and unplug the power supply cord.

  • Page 18: Understanding The Lcd Screens

    GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Understanding the LCD Screens The LCD screen, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, displays the settings for the selected stitch and error messages if operations are performed incorrectly. When the sewing machine is turned on, the LCD comes on and the following screen appears.

  • Page 19: Checking Machine Operating Procedures

    LCD. Turn on the sewing machine. The LCD comes on. Press (sewing machine help key) in the operation panel. The sewing machine help screen appears. Press (arrow keys) until the image illustrating desired topic is selected.

  • Page 20: Changing The Machine Settings

    GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Changing the Machine Settings Various sewing machine operations and sewing settings can be changed. Changing the settings The general procedure for changing machine settings is described below. Turn on the sewing machine. The LCD comes on. Press (settings key) in the operation panel.
  • Page 21 Specifies the sewing density of the stitching. Allows adjusted pattern widths and lengths to be saved. Specifies where the needle is positioned when the sewing machine is stopped. Specifies the twin needle. Allows the stitch width to be adjusted with the sewing speed controller.

  • Page 22: Changing The Needle Stop Position

    GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Changing the needle stop position When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to leave the needle lowered in the fabric when sewing is stopped. However, the machine can be set to instead leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped.

  • Page 23: Changing The Screen Language

    Changing the screen language The language used in the screens that are displayed can be changed to one of the many available. When the sewing machine is purchased, the screens appear in English. Press (settings key) in the operation panel, and then press (arrow keys) until is selected.

  • Page 24: Winding/Installing The Bobbin

    Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine. ● The enclosed bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from older models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, XA5539-151).
  • Page 25 Turn on the sewing machine. Lift open the upper cover. Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft so that the spring on the shaft fits into the notch in the bobbin. 1 Notch 2 Bobbin winder shaft spring Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.
  • Page 26 GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— CAUTION ● If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin or the needle may break. ● Three spool cap sizes are available (large, medium and small), allowing you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used.
  • Page 27 Memo ● When the sewing machine is started or the balance wheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.

  • Page 28: Installing The Bobbin

    ● The bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from older models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, XA5539-151).
  • Page 29 CAUTION ● Be sure to hold down the bobbin with your finger and unroll the bobbin thread correctly, otherwise the thread may break or the thread tension will be incorrect. Reattach the bobbin cover. Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side.

  • Page 30: Upper Threading

    Memo ● The order that the machine should be threaded is indicated by a solid line on the sewing machine. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated. Threading the upper thread Turn on the sewing machine.
  • Page 31 1 Needle position button • If the needle is not correctly raised, the sewing machine cannot be threaded. Check that the mark on the balance wheel is facing up as shown in the illustration below. If the...
  • Page 32 GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— CAUTION ● If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin or the needle may break. ● Three spool cap sizes are available (large, medium and small), allowing you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used.

  • Page 33: Threading The Needle

    Threading the needle The needle threader can be used with needle size 75/11 through 100/16. For more details on the needle, refer to “Needle types and their uses” (page 33). With your left hand, hold the end of the thread passed through the needle bar thread hook, and then pass the thread through the thread guide discs from the front.

  • Page 34: Using The Twin Needle

    GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Raise the presser foot lever, pass the thread through the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread toward the rear of the machine. 1 5 cm (2 inch) The lower threading is finished. Now that the upper threading and the lower threading are finished, you are ready to begin sewing.
  • Page 35 • The needle threader cannot be used with the twin needle. If the needle threader is used with the twin needle, the sewing machine may be damaged. Insert the extra spool pin onto the bobbin winder shaft.
  • Page 36 (OK key). The initial stitch screen appears again, and appears in the lower-left corner of the screen. • Even after the sewing machine is turned off, the twin needle setting is not cancelled. CAUTION ● When using the twin needle, be sure to...

  • Page 37: Using Thread That Winds Off Quickly

    Using thread that winds off quickly When using thread that winds off quickly, such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, place the enclosed spool net over the spool before placing the spool of thread onto the spool pin. If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the size of the spool.
  • Page 38 GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Pull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of the bobbin thread under the presser foot toward the rear of the machine. Reattach the bobbin cover. Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side.

  • Page 39: Replacing The Needle

    Needle types and their uses The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.

  • Page 40: Checking The Needle

    ● Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with transparent nylon threads, regardless of the fabric being sewn. ● A 75/11 needle is already installed when the sewing machine is purchased. CAUTION ● The appropriate fabric, thread and needle combinations are shown in the table on the previous page.

  • Page 41: Replacing The Needle

    Turn off the sewing machine. CAUTION ● Before replacing the needle, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the start/stop button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing. Lower the presser foot lever.
  • Page 42 GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— CAUTION ● Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may break or damage may result.

  • Page 43: Replacing The Presser Foot

    ● Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other presser foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine. Replacing the presser foot Replace the presser foot as described below.
  • Page 44 Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the sewing machine, attach the correct presser foot, and then select the desired stitch again. Buttonhole foot “A”...

  • Page 45: Adjusting The Pressure Of The Presser Foot

    Removing the presser foot holder Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser foot holder, such as the quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder.

  • Page 46: Using The Walking Foot

    GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Note ● If the presser foot holder is not correctly installed, the thread tension will be incorrect. Using the walking foot With the walking foot, both pieces of fabric are fed evenly by the feed dogs and the teeth on the presser foot.
  • Page 47 (needle position button) once or twice to raise the needle. 1 Needle position button The needle is raised. Turn off the sewing machine. Raise the presser foot lever. 1 Presser foot lever The presser foot is raised. With a screwdriver, loosen the presser foot holder screw, and then remove the walking foot.

  • Page 48: Sewing Cylindrical Or Large Pieces

    Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left. With the flat bed attachment removed, free- arm sewing is possible. Install the wide table. Keeping the wide table level, fully slide it into place. Note ● The optional wide table is available through your brother retailer.
  • Page 49 Turn the screw at the bottom of the legs to adjust their height. CAUTION ● Do not move the sewing machine while the wide table is attached, otherwise damage or injuries may occur. When you are finished using the wide table, remove it.
  • Page 50 GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————...

  • Page 51: Sewing Basics

    SEWING BASICS The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter. Sewing ...46 Adjusting the Thread Tension ...54 Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length ...55 Useful Functions ...57 Useful Sewing Tips ...62...

  • Page 52: Sewing

    SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing Basic sewing operations are described below. Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions. CAUTION ● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and balance wheel, otherwise injuries may occur.

  • Page 53: General Sewing Procedure

    General sewing procedure Follow the basic procedures below to sew. Turn on the sewing machine. Turn on the For details on turning on the machine, refer to “Turning on the machine” machine. (page 11). Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn.

  • Page 54: Positioning The Fabric

    Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric are aligned correctly. Turn on the sewing machine. The straight stitch (left needle position) is automatically selected. Press (needle position button) once or twice to raise the needle.

  • Page 55: Starting To Sew

    Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot controller. Turn off the sewing machine. When connecting the foot controller, be sure to turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent the machine from accidentally being started. Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on the side of the sewing machine.
  • Page 56 SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Turn on the sewing machine. Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or right to select the desired sewing speed. Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.

  • Page 57: Securing The Stitching

    Securing the stitching When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at the end of an opening or where seams do not overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement stitching to secure the end of the thread. Lower the needle into the fabric at the beginning of the stitching, and then lower the presser foot lever.
  • Page 58 The machine starts sewing in the normal sewing direction. After sewing to the end of the stitching, the sewing machine stops. Release the start/stop button or foot controller. 1 Beginning of stitching 2 End of stitching ■...

  • Page 59: Cutting The Thread

    When you wish to finish the stitching and the sewing machine is stopped, press (needle position button) once to raise the needle. 1 Needle position button The needle is raised.

  • Page 60: Adjusting The Thread Tension

    SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Adjusting the Thread Tension The tensions of the upper thread and of the bobbin thread (thread tension) should be adjusted so that they are equal. Changing the tension of the upper thread If the thread and needle combination is correct for the type of fabric being sewn (according to “Needle types and their uses”...

  • Page 61: Adjusting The Stitch Width And Length

    For details, refer to “Saving stitch settings” (page 60). ● The sewing machine can be set so that the stitch width can easily be changed with the sewing speed controller. For details, refer to “Satin stitching”...

  • Page 62: Adjusting The Stitch Length

    SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Adjusting the stitch length The stitch length can be adjusted with the arrow keys. Turn on the sewing machine. The LCD comes on. Select a stitch. A screen containing settings for the selected stitch appears. • For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching”...

  • Page 63: Useful Functions

    Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below. Automatically sewing reverse/ reinforcement stitches The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of the stitching. Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected.

  • Page 64: Automatically Cutting The Thread

    Automatically cutting the thread The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut the threads at the end of the stitching. This is called “programmed thread-cutting”. If programmed thread-cutting is set, automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching is also set.
  • Page 65 (OK key). The initial stitch screen appears again, and appears in the lower-left corner of the screen. • When the sewing machine is turned off, the programmed thread-cutting setting is cancelled. Position the fabric under the presser foot, and then press (start/stop button) once.

  • Page 66: Saving Stitch Settings

    SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Saving stitch settings Adjusted stitch width and length settings can be saved so that they will be specified each time the stitch is selected. The various settings can be saved for each utility stitch. Select the stitch, and then adjust the stitch width and length.

  • Page 67: Hands-Free Raising And Lifting Of The Presser Foot

    ■ Installing the knee lifter Turn off the sewing machine. Insert the knee lifter into its jack on the front of the sewing machine in the lower-right corner. Align the tabs on the knee lifter with the notches in the jack, and then insert the knee lifter as far as possible.

  • Page 68: Useful Sewing Tips

    Changing the sewing direction When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the sewing machine. Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the needle remained up when the machine stopped sewing, press (needle position button) to lower the needle.

  • Page 69: Sewing Thick Fabrics

    Sewing thick fabrics ■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position. ■...

  • Page 70: Sewing Thin Fabrics

    SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing thin fabrics When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.
  • Page 71 ■ Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking The markings on the needle plate show the distance from the needle position of a seam sewn with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with a marking in the needle plate.
  • Page 72 SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————...

  • Page 73: Utility Stitches

    UTILITY STITCHES The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter. Selecting Stitching ...68 Overcasting Stitches ...70 Basic Stitching ...74 Blind Hem Stitching ...76 Buttonhole Stitching ...78 Zipper Insertion ...85 Zipper/piping Insertion ...89 Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape ...91 Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ...93 Reinforcement Stitching ...100 Eyelet Stitching ...104...

  • Page 74: Selecting Stitching

    LCD. Twelve of the most often used utility stitches can quickly be selected with the stitch keys. When the sewing machine is turned on, the straight stitch (left needle position) is selected. Determine the stitch that you wish to use.
  • Page 75 Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the sewing machine, attach the correct presser foot, and then select the desired stitch again. Memo ●...

  • Page 76: Overcasting Stitches

    UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Overcasting Stitches Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent them from fraying. Fifteen stitches are available for overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the presser foot that is used. Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G”...

  • Page 77: Sewing Overcasting Stitches Using Zigzag Foot "J

    Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J” Seven stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot “J”. Stitch Stitch Name Pattern Zigzag stitch (center Preventing fraying (center needle baseline/reverse stitching) position) Zigzag stitch Preventing fraying (right (right needle –...

  • Page 78: Sewing Overcasting Stitches Using The Optional Side Cutter

    Lower the presser foot lever, and then manually thread the needle. • The needle threader cannot be used. If the needle threader is used with the side cutter, the sewing machine may be damaged. Raise the presser foot lever. Stitch Width Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]...
  • Page 79 ● If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric, use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to the cutting edge of the cutter. ● The optional side cutter is available through your brother retailer. Overcasting Stitches...

  • Page 80: Basic Stitching

    UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Basic Stitching Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Five stitches are available for basic stitching. Stitch Stitch Name Pattern Basting – Temporarily securing stitch Basic stitching and sewing gathers or pintucks (left Straight baseline/reverse stitching) stitch (left needle Basic stitching and sewing...
  • Page 81 Start sewing. • For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 49). • For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches, refer to “Securing the stitching” (page 51). When sewing is finished, cut the thread. • For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 53).

  • Page 82: Blind Hem Stitching

    UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Blind Hem Stitching Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching. Stitch Stitch Name Pattern Blind hem stitching on mediumweight fabrics Blind hem stitch Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure.
  • Page 83 Adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem. 1 Needle drop point – 1 Stitch width ■ If the needle catches too much of the hem fold The needle is too far to the left. Press (of the arrow keys) to decrease the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches...

  • Page 84: Buttonhole Stitching

    UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Buttonhole Stitching Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Eleven stitches are available for sewing on buttons and one-step buttonholes. Stitch Stitch Name Pattern Horizontal buttonholes on – thin and mediumweight fabrics Horizontal buttonholes on –...

  • Page 85: Buttonhole Sewing

    Buttonhole sewing The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) (diameter + thickness of the button). Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below. 1 Reinforcement stitching The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.
  • Page 86 UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■ If the button does not fit in the button guide plate Add together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set the button guide plate to the calculated length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).) 1 Presser foot scale 2 Length of buttonhole...
  • Page 87 Raise the buttonhole lever to its original position. Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent the stitching from being cut. 1 Pin Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin and open the buttonhole.

  • Page 88: Button Sewing

    Trim off any excess of the gimp thread. Button sewing Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached. Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the drop feed lever, located at the rear of the machine on the base, to seen from the front of the machine).
  • Page 89 • When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the button so that the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of the sewing machine, and then sew them in the same way. Select stitch •...
  • Page 90 UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Attaching a shank to a button To sew the button with a shank, attach the button with space between it and the fabric, and then wind the thread by hand. This attaches the button securely. Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”, and then pull the shank lever toward you.

  • Page 91: Zipper Insertion

    Zipper Insertion A zipper can be sewn in place. Stitch Stitch Name Pattern Straight Attaching zippers stitch (center Sewing concealed seams and needle pintucks position) There are many methods for inserting zippers. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a side zipper are described below.

  • Page 92: Inserting A Side Zipper

    UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Select stitch • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68). CAUTION ● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to select the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the balance wheel toward you to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot.
  • Page 93 When you are about 5 cm (2 inch) from the end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise the presser foot lever, and then open the zipper and continue sewing.
  • Page 94 4 Beginning of stitching 5 Basting stitching When you are about 5 cm (2 inch) from the end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine with the needle lowered (in the fabric), and then raise the presser foot lever. Remove the basting stitching, open the zipper,...

  • Page 95: Zipper/Piping Insertion

    Zipper/piping Insertion A zipper and piping can be sewn in place. Stitch Stitch Name Pattern Straight Attaching zippers stitch (left Sewing concealed seams and needle piping position) There are many methods for inserting zippers and pipings. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a piping are described below, with the adjustable zipper/piping foot.

  • Page 96: Inserting A Piping

    UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Securely tighten the positioning screw with a screwdriver. 1 Positioning screw Topstitch around the zipper. 1 Stitching 2 Right side of fabric 3 Basting stitching 4 End of zipper opening CAUTION ● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

  • Page 97: Sewing Stretch Fabrics And Elastic Tape

    Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached. Stitch Stitch Name Pattern Stretch Stretch fabrics stitch 2-point – zigzag stitch Attaching elastic 3-point zigzag stitch Elastic- Attaching elastic to stretch attaching –...
  • Page 98 UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Select a stitch. • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68). Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while stretching the tape so that it is the same length as the fabric. While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand.

  • Page 99: Appliqué, Patchwork And Quilt Stitching

    Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below. Stitch Stitch Name Pattern Attaching appliqués (center baseline/reverse stitching) Zigzag stitch Appliqué quilting, free-motion – quilting, satin stitching Attaching appliqués Appliqué...
  • Page 100 UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Turn the fabric over, and then baste or pin it onto the fabric that it will be attached to. 1 Basting stitching Attach the open toe foot. • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37). Select a stitch.

  • Page 101: Patchwork (Crazy Quilt) Stitching

    Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and place it over the lower piece. Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the pattern spans over both pieces. Piecing Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called “piecing”.

  • Page 102: Quilting

    UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Memo ● To change the width of the seam allowance (the needle position), adjust the stitch width. Quilting Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily be sewn using the walking foot and the quilting guide.

  • Page 103: Free-Motion Quilting

    Note ● The optional quilting guide is available through your brother retailer. Free-motion quilting With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be lowered (using the drop feed lever) so that the fabric can be moved freely in any direction.
  • Page 104 1 Feed dog position switch (as seen from the rear of the machine) 2 Back side The feed dogs are lowered. Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a stitch. • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

  • Page 105: Satin Stitching

    Satin stitching A decorative stitch can be sewn by changing the stitch width of a satin stitch. If the sewing machine is set so that the stitch width can be adjusted using the sewing speed controller, the stitch width can quickly and easily be adjusted.

  • Page 106: Reinforcement Stitching

    UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Reinforcement Stitching Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners. Stitch Stitch Name Pattern Triple Reinforcing the seams of stretch sleeves and inseams stitch Reinforcing the ends of Bar tack –...
  • Page 107 Attach buttonhole foot “A”. • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37). Select stitch • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68). Position the fabric so that the opening of the pocket faces toward you, and then lower the presser foot lever so that the needle drops 2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket opening.

  • Page 108: Darning

    UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Darning Fabric that has been torn can be darned. Darning is sewn as shown below. 1 Reinforcement stitching Determine the desired length of the darning. Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot “A” to the desired length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).) 1 Presser foot scale...
  • Page 109 Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as possible. 1 Buttonhole lever The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot. 1 Buttonhole lever 2 Bracket Gently hold the end of the upper thread in your left hand, and then start sewing. Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops...

  • Page 110: Eyelet Stitching

    UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Eyelet Stitching Eyelets, such as those on belts, can be sewn. Three sizes of eyelets are possible: 7 mm, 6 mm and 5 mm (1/4, 15/64 and 3/16 inch). Stitch Name Application Pattern Sewing eyelets, for example, Eyelet stitch on belts Attach monogramming foot “N”.

  • Page 111: Decorative Stitching

    Decorative Stitching Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine. Stitch Name Application Pattern Fagoting Sewing two pieces of fabric stitch together across an open seam Joining Decorative bridging stitches stitch Shell tuck Shell tuck stitching on collars...

  • Page 112: Fagoting

    UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Stitch Name Application Pattern Decorative Decorative stitching stitch Fagoting Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch is more decorative when thicker thread is used. Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric along their seams.

  • Page 113: Scallop Stitching

    Scallop stitching The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like shells is called “scalloping”. It is used on the collars of blouses and to decorate the edges of handkerchiefs. Attach monogramming foot “N”. • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot”...

  • Page 114: Shell Tuck Stitching

    UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Select stitch • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68). Stitch between the straight stitches. Pull out the threads for the straight stitches. Shell tuck stitching The gathers that look like shells are called “shell tucks”. They are used to decorate trims, the front of blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics.

  • Page 115: Joining

    Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks down to one side. Joining Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when making a crazy quilt. Attach zigzag foot “J”. • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot”...

  • Page 116: Heirloom Stitching

    • For details on installing a needle, refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 35). • The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle, otherwise the sewing machine may be damaged. Manually pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front.
  • Page 117 Partially removing threads is called “drawnwork”. This gives a beautiful result with fabrics that have a loose weave. Two ways to create drawnwork are described below. ■ Drawnwork (Example 1) Pull out several threads from the fabric. Attach monogramming foot “N”. •...
  • Page 118 UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Drawnwork (Example 2) Pull out several threads from two sections of the fabric, separated by an unfrayed section of about 4 mm (3/16 inch). 1 4 mm (3/16 inch) Attach monogramming foot “N”. • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot”...

  • Page 119: Sewing The Various Built-In Decorative Patterns

    ■ Needles and threads When sewing thin, mediumweight or stretch fabrics, use the ball point needle. When sewing thick fabrics, use a 90/14 home sewing machine needle. In addition, 75/11 to 90/14 thread should be used. ■ Trial sewing...

  • Page 120: Combining Patterns

    UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Sew reinforcement stitches. When sewing with a character stitch, reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn after each character. • When sewing a pattern with a stitch other than a character stitch, it is useful to first set the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching setting.

  • Page 121: Repeat Sewing Patterns

    ● Up to 70 patterns can be combined. ● Some utility stitches cannot be combined. ● If multiple patterns have been combined, the sewing machine stops once all the selected patterns displayed in the LCD have been sewn. To repeatedly sew the combined pattern, refer to “Repeat sewing...

  • Page 122: Checking The Selected Pattern

    2 Repeated Note ● If repeated sewing is set, the pattern is repeatedly sewn until the sewing machine is stopped. ● If the sewing machine is turned off, the repeated/single sewing setting returns to its default setting. Checking the selected pattern Up to 70 patterns can be combined.

  • Page 123: Changing The Pattern Size

    Changing the pattern size The size of character stitches in the Gothic font and outline style can be switched between large and small. However, the size of other patterns cannot be changed. Select a stitch. Select a character stitch in either the Gothic font or outline style.

  • Page 124: Changing The Stitch Density

    UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Changing the stitch density If a decorative satin stitch has been selected, the stitch density can be changed. Select a decorative satin stitch Press (settings key) in the operation panel. The settings screen appears. Press (arrow keys) until is selected.

  • Page 125: Mirror Imaging The Pattern

    Mirror imaging the pattern The pattern can be mirror imaged along a vertical axis. Select a stitch. Press (settings key) in the operation panel. The settings screen appears. Press (arrow keys) until is selected. Press (OK key). The screen for mirror imaging the pattern appears.

  • Page 126: Storing A Pattern

    “Saving...” appears while the pattern is being stored in the pocket. • Do not turn off the sewing machine while a pattern is being stored, otherwise the pattern data may be lost. After the pattern is stored, the initial stitch screen appears again.

  • Page 127: Realigning The Pattern

    The pattern alignment stitch is selected. Start sewing. The pattern for making the adjustment is sewn. The sewing machine stops after it has finished sewing the pattern. Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns (arrow keys) until...
  • Page 128 UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Check the sewn pattern. If the part of the pattern indicated in the illustration is sewn uniformly, the pattern is correctly aligned. If the pattern is not sewn correctly, following the steps below to adjust the sewing. Press (settings key) in the operation panel.

  • Page 129: Designing A Pattern

    Designing a Pattern With the My Custom Stitch function, you can sew stitch patterns that you design yourself. Drawing a sketch of the pattern Prepare a grid sheet set. Draw a sketch of the pattern on the grid sheet set. Draw the pattern as one continuous line and with the start point and the end point of the design at the same height.

  • Page 130: Entering The Pattern Data

    UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Entering the pattern data Follow the pattern drawn on the grid sheet and program the pattern into the sewing machine. Attach monogramming foot “N”. • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37). Turn on the sewing machine.
  • Page 131 The embroidery screen appears. Specify the various stitching settings, such as reverse/reinforcement stitching, in the same way as with other stitches. • With this screen displayed, pressing (back key) allows you to add or remove points. Memo ● To store the entered pattern data, store it from the embroidery screen.

  • Page 132: Design Exampled

    UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Design exampled Enter each of the points indicated in the table to sew the sample stitch. Point Point Point Point Point Point Point Point...

  • Page 133: Appendix

    APPENDIX The various maintenance and troubleshooting procedures are described in this chapter. Stitch Settings ...128 Maintenance ...135 Troubleshooting ...137 Index ...144...

  • Page 134: Stitch Settings

    APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Stitch Settings Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in the following table. Utility stitches Stitch Name Pattern Application Basic stitching, sewing gathers or pintucks, etc. Basic stitching and Straight sewing gathers or pin- stitch...
  • Page 135 Stitch Name Pattern Application Overcasting on thin or mediumweight fabrics Overcasting on thick fabrics Overcasting on thick fabrics and decorative stitching Overcasting stitch Overcasting on stretch fabrics Overcasting on thick or stretch fabrics Overcasting on stretch fabrics and decorative stitching Blind hem stitching on mediumweight fabrics Blind hem...
  • Page 136 APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Stitch Name Pattern Application Decorative stitching Decorative stitching Decorative stitching Decorative stitching and elastic-attaching Lace sewing, decora- tive hemming, heir- loom stitching, etc. Decorative hemming, heirloom stitching, etc. Decorative hemming on thin, mediumweight and plain weave fab- Decorative rics, heirloom stitch- stitch ing, etc.
  • Page 137 Stitch Name Pattern Application Horizontal button- holes on thin and mediumweight fabrics Horizontal button- holes on areas that are subject to strain Horizontal button- holes on thick fabrics Secured buttonholes for fabrics that have backings Buttonholes for stretch or knit fabrics Buttonhole stitch Buttonholes for stretch...
  • Page 138 APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Stitch Name Pattern Application Quilting stitch Quilting background (for stippling) stitching (stippling) Sewing straight stitches while cutting the fabric Sewing zigzag stitches while cutting the fabric Overcasting on thin and mediumweight Side cutter fabrics while cutting the fabric Overcasting on thick fabrics while cutting the fabric...

  • Page 139: Other Stitches

    Other stitches Stitch Type Decorative stitches Satin stitches Cross-stitches Decorative satin stitches Character stitches (Gothic font) *Pattern for making adjustment Pattern Large Yes Yes Large Yes Yes Large Yes Yes Large (length only) Large, Small Stitch Settings...
  • Page 140 APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Stitch Type Character stitches (Script font) Character stitches (Outline style) Pattern Large Large, Small...

  • Page 141: Maintenance

    Maintenance Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below. Cleaning the machine surface If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a cloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and then wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning it once with a wet cloth, wipe it again with a dry cloth.
  • Page 142 APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Turn the balance wheel toward you until the tip of the shuttle hook aligns with the edge of the race shelf. 1 Shuttle race 2 Shuttle 3 Edge of the shuttle race 4 Tip of the shuttle hook •...

  • Page 143: Troubleshooting

    Troubleshooting If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service. If the problem persists, contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. Symptom Probable Cause The machine is not turned on. The start/stop button was not pressed.
  • Page 144 APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Symptom Probable Cause The upper thread was not threaded correctly (for example, the spool is not installed correctly, the spool cap is too big for the spool being used, or the thread has come out of the nee- dle bar thread hook).
  • Page 145 Symptom Probable Cause The upper thread was not threaded correctly, or the bobbin is incor- rectly installed. The spool is incorrectly installed. The combination of fabric, thread The fabric is and needle is not correct. wrinkled. The needle is bent or blunt. If thin fabrics are being sewn, the stitch is too coarse.
  • Page 146 APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Symptom Probable Cause The feed dogs are lowered. The stitch is too fine. The presser foot that is used is not appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew. The fabric does not feed. The pressure of the presser foot is weak.

  • Page 147: Error Messages

    Error messages If the start/stop button is pressed before the sewing machine is correctly set up or if an operation is performed incorrectly, an error message appears in the LCD. Follow the instructions that appear. If you press (OK key), (back key) message disappears.

  • Page 148: Nothing Appears In The Lcd

    (–) or (+). Adjust the brightness of the LCD so that the screens can be seen. Turn off the sewing machine, then turn it on again. Operation beep Each time a key is pressed or an incorrect operation is performed, a beep is sounded.

  • Page 149: Cancelling The Operation Beep

    Cancelling the operation beep When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to beep each time an operation panel key is pressed. This setting can be changed so that the machine does not beep. Turn on the sewing machine.

  • Page 150: Index

    APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Index Symbols + key ...Cover E Numerics 2-point zigzag stitch ...71 3-point zigzag stitch ...71 accessories ... Cover A adjustable zipper/piping foot ...89 air vent ... Cover C appliques ...93 arrow keys ...Cover E automatic reinforcement stitching ...57 automatic reverse stitching ...57 automatic thread-cutting ...58 back key ...Cover E...
  • Page 151 ...Cover A seam ripper ...Cover A selecting stitching ...68 settings ...14 settings key ... Cover E sewing machine help key ... Cover E sewing machine needles ...33 sewing speed ...49 sewing speed controller ... Cover B shell tuck stitch ...108 shutter ...26...
  • Page 152 APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— walking foot ...Cover A wide table ... 1 wing needle ...110 zipper stitching ... 85...
  • Page 153 English 885-S62 XE1139-001 Printed in China...

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